A new listing from Portugal: Quinta Vale D.Maria 2007, Douro, Christiano Van Zeller

This week, we have had a great addition on the Portugal section of the wine list. I came across an unusual wine from the Douro region.

The wine maker Cristiano van Zeller acquired the vineyard of “Quinta do Vale Dona Maria” in 1996 from his wife family. This old-vine vineyard, located in the Rio Torto Valley in the heart of the Douro Demarcated Region, had incredible potential, but also needed a great deal of work before it would begin producing really great wines.

A tremendous job of reconstruction was needed, from recovering the old vines to rebuilding every single building on the property, but the fantastic potential for quality from the old vines made this undertaking a wise investment.  Planted with grape varieties that cover a broad spectrum of the traditional Douro varieties - Tinta Amarela, Rufete, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Francesa, Touriga Nacional, Sousão, and many others(around 40) - it looked as though it could provide a unique and outstanding quality base for both Ports and Douro Red Wines.  After pruning and consolidating only the best vines, the Quinta is a 19+ hectare property planted with 10 hectares of over 50 year old, south to south-east facing vineyards. All Red Wines are foot trodden in “lagares” for at least 24 hours before fermentation takes place in the modern stainless steel temperature controlled tanks. The wines are unfiltered or only slightly filtered just before bottling. This ensures that they keep all their ageing potential while in bottle. This also ensures that all the exceptional fruit they seek is present at all stages. They are also matured in French oak for around 18 months.

My tasting notes for this wine today 24/05/2010:

Quinta Vale D.Maria 2007, Douro, Portugal, Christiano Van Zeller

Nose: Very aromatic, Médoc like, plum, torrefaction coffee/cacao, burned cake, griottine, ash.

Palate: The attack is very fruity with cherry jam, rich and full bodied, velvety tannins, soft and medium length finish. The wine shows a good structure with enough acidity and concentration to become more interesting in another five years from now. This is definitely a fine wine.

Fabrice Bouffant

Head Sommelier